IT’S NOT OFTEN that Pennsylvania introduces the public to new, small, hard-to-find wines. Let’s be honest here: You’re not likely to wander into a state store and spot the kind of small-production gems that get the so-called wine people all hot and bothered.

But suddenly, by some stroke of genius, the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board has not only decided to bring standout producer Pfendler into the state, but is making it available in Philadelphia-area stores.

The pedigree of the wines is unique, too, bringing former Hollywood power player Kimberly Pfendler and highly regarded winemaker Greg Bjornstad together to create two excellent new wines from one of California’s most exciting wine-growing regions, the Sonoma Coast.

The 2008 Chardonnay ($38), of which only 200 cases were produced, is classic California: Aromas of buttered toast, vanilla and hazelnuts lead to a palate that tastes of lemon cream and flowers. It’s ripe and rich and drinkable, especially with a simple dish like veal with lemon and olive oil.

The 2007 Pinot Noir ($45), which was produced in a run of 350 cases, is just as generous with its nose of ripe, juicy cherries and gentle perfume of licorice and spice. Flavors of rich berries, a hint of mushrooms and an almost cola-like note make this Pinot perfect either on its own or alongside seasonal grilled dishes.

And as Pennsylvania is one of only three US states to carry the wines, you’ll know you’re drinking something truly unique.