AS THE HOLIDAYS APPROACH, and images of menorahs and sugarplum fairies dance in our heads, our thoughts inevitably turn to the feel-good foods of the season. These days, few standards receive as much love as the simple potato pancake. Spruce them up with black truffle yogurt or poached chicken and cinnamon, like the ones served at Zahav, or wallow in the golden deliciousness of a classic latke, like Delicatessen’s homey rendition. Perhaps Jonathan Gregory, general manager at Jones, which also turns out a worthy rendition, sums it up best: “We like our dishes to bring back fond memories of family, holidays and celebrations that can be enjoyed year-round. Our potato pancakes, which have had a place on our menu since Jones first opened, are a prime example of what comfort food is all about.”

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