Pickled beetroot jar at Dandelion
The Corner
American
The mustachioed mixologists that once worked the bar at Apothecary may have moved on, but that’s no reason for the rest of us to take up barstools elsewhere. In fact, plenty besides the name has changed—and for the better—at The Corner, starting with the menu. Executive chef John Taus is manning the gleaming open kitchen, turning out a hodgepodge of feel-good foods like pork belly sliders, truffle grilled cheese and fried chicken—dishes as good for a quick bite as they are stacked with a couple of sides to round out a full dinner. Though much of the former décor remains, cozy touches like light-colored wood tables have brightened up the once-moody dining room. In a nod to Apothecary, The Corner is soldiering on with its noteworthy cocktail program, still best savored from the rooftop patio overlooking 13th Street. 102 S. 13th St.; thephillycorner.com
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| Dandelion’s butter lettuce salad | |
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| Upstairs bar at Dandelion |
The Dandelion
Gastropub
England is rarely praised for its cuisine, but making a fine case against that myth is Stephen Starr’s newest gastropub: a cozy bi-level interior, open for drinks and bar snacks, afternoon tea or Sunday roasts. For dinner chef Robert Aikens offers up the cuisine of his homeland: a lamb shepherd’s pie under a melting layer of mashed potatoes and sharp cheese, and a hefty portion of fish and chips—a golden-crispy, beer-battered (with Yards IPA!) filet of line-caught cod accompanied by a house-made tartar sauce made with sweet-tart cornichons. Beer enthusiasts will want to visit for its rotating cask ales, hard ciders and hard-to-find imports. To finish, either the sticky toffee, the carrot cake or the vanilla shortbread will convert any skeptic into a full-on Anglophile. 124 S. 18th St.; thedandelionpub.com
Little Fish
Seafood
Philly foodies winced when chef/owner Mike Stollenwerk shuttered this critically acclaimed Queen Village BYO in April 2010 because of structural concerns. But it’s business as usual at the recently reopened Little Fish, where seemingly the only thing that has changed is the address. Version 2.0, tucked inside Salt & Pepper’s former home, recaptures its original charms with ease, not the least of which is a modest yet finely edited all-seafood menu. On a recent visit, a starter of fluke ceviche was made almost summery with the flavors of blood orange, radish and hearts of palm. Striped bass was paired with a warm bed of braised romaine and bagna càuda, which is akin to Caesar dressing but much lighter in flavor and texture. Veteran fans will rejoice in the return of the $33 five-course prix-fixe menu on Sundays. 746 S. Sixth St.; littlefishbyob.com
The White Dog Café
Contemporary American
As the most coveted reservation on the Main Line, Wayne’s White Dog Café has turned the western suburb’s restaurant scene on its ear. Sharing the same eco-friendly ideologies as Judy Wicks’ original White Dog in West Philly, this latest outpost has merged sustainability and dining into one deliciously green experience. Owned now by restaurateur Marty Grims (Du Jour, Moshulu), the aesthetic is highly conceptualized with the notion that the restaurant is a friend’s home where each room has its own distinct vibe. Using all locally grown foods, chef Zach Grainda serves up some of the area’s most decadent meals. Standouts include a robust Kennett Square mushroom soup with a dollop of truffle chive crème fraîche, spiced lamb sliders topped with tomato-olive tapenade and perfectly browned Maine boat scallops atop a bed of rich parsnip purée. For dessert indulge in a milk-andhoney mousse finished with fried milk. Saturday night tables fill up eight weeks out, so make your reservations early. It’s well worth the wait. 200 W. Lancaster Ave., Wayne; whitedog.com/wayne
