clockwise from left: opa, Pulpo at Opa, Veal meatballs at Opa
FATHOM SEAFOOD HOUSE
Fishtown, the historic Philadelphia neighborhood that once reeled in the majority of the Delaware’s shad fishing, recently welcomed the gastropub Fathom Seafood House, the third venture from Fish and Little Fish’s Mike Stollenwerk. Cozily packed into the slim corner bar, diners can choose from 30-plus bottled or canned beers. For bites, all your bar food cravings are done up with imaginative f lair—picture a grilled sourdough and fontina cheese sandwich crammed with the contents of a half lobster, or blue bay mussels simmered in a delicate panang curry with coconut and lemongrass. East and West Coast oysters make up the raw bar spread, and the salt-roasted jumbo shrimp are served with a divine horseradish-spiked cocktail sauce made in house. We recommend the Fathom Fries, a riff on Canadian poutine with skin-on potato cuts dressed in lump crab meat, Old Bay crab gravy and mozzarella cheese curds. 200 E. Girard Ave.
THE FARMERS' CABINET
The Farmers’ Cabinet is not like other restaurants you’ve experienced before. When you walk into its dusky interior, you’ll pass by candlelit jars suspended from the ceiling, wooden barrels that serve as seating in the bar area and looming deer busts mounted on the walls. The rustic American menu encourages diners to get out of their culinary comfort zones, abandoning chicken for roasted squab and French duck breast, or steaks for grilled elk strip loin and venison. Handpick your own cheese plate from offerings both local and imported or order the artisanal cheese fondue, sure to be a Farmers’ Cabinet classic. Other starters on a recent visit included bourbon-braised escargot with tasso ham and duck egg in a jar alongside black trumpet mushrooms and foie gras. Communal tables throughout the main dining room encourage conversation among guests, further enhanced by the range of European craft beers—26 on tap, 80-plus bottles—and classic cocktails. This summer, be on the lookout for artisanal beers brewed right in the kitchen. 1113 Walnut St.
THE FARMER'S DAUGHTER
In accordance with his restaurant’s flirty name, executive chef Mtele Abubakar winks at farm fare, putting a modern twist on old-fashioned cooking styles with garden-fresh flavors. Out of the kitchen tumbles an array of starters, like rosemary and cannellini bean hummus, tapenade and piccalilli toppers in pint-size mason jars. Standout bites on a recent visit included a spring pea soup topped with spiced pecans and a decadent mouthful of cinnamon-smoked squab. Main courses were plated in artful disarray recalling farm scenes: A petite trough of green peas and pearl onions accompanied a succulent chicken, vacuumsealed during cooking. Also noteworthy was a meaty Virginia striped bass served alongside lentils, fennel salad and hibiscus chestnut cream. Stop at the bar after dinner for a drink concocted from the liquor infusions lining the shelves. 1401 Morris Road, Blue Bell; normandygirl.com
OPA
Midtown Village’s latest meeting place for imbibing and dining, Opa greets guests with a contemporary décor and walls bathed in turquoise the color of the Mediterranean. For dinner, waiters serve modern Greek presentations of mezedes (small plates) such as saganaki, a sinfully melty fried Kaseri cheese cut with lemon juice; spinach croquettes alongside a smoky feta cheese dip; and a toothsome grilled octopus accompanied by an earthy side of chickpea fondue spiked with chili oil. Any traditionalist will be hard-pressed not to order the bite-size gyros, tender bits of warm lamb tucked into a pita with cucumber, tomato and tzatziki. If there’s room for large plates, don’t shy away from the rabbit: In a traditional Greek preparation of carrots, olives, capers, tomatoes and red wine, the meat is so tender it can be woven onto your fork with ease. Complement your meal with one of Opa’s original cocktails like the lemony, herbaceous Antho—a cucumber vodka and lemon nectar libation topped with dill. 1311 Sansom St.
