Making Waves

March 12, 2012 | by By Kristin Detterline-Munro | Food & Drink News

It was love at first bite when Philadelphians sunk their teeth into the supremely fresh offerings at Little Fish, Mike Stollenwerk’s tiny Bella Vista BYOB, in 2007. Over the years, similar scenes of seafood lust have played out at the chef’s subsequent ventures: Fish, a fine-dining restaurant complete with a bar, on the cusp of Rittenhouse in 2009; Little Fish again, in early 2011, following a move to a nearly identical space a few blocks away; and Fathom, a casual bar concept in Fishtown that Stollenwerk has since bowed out of (as with the Little Fish reboot). With the recent reopening of Fish, in a new location on a prime corner in Midtown Village, it’s clear that Stollenwerk has found an ideal port in which to drop anchor and stay awhile. The windowfilled restaurant hints at a modern fish market, with its subway-tile and paneled gray walls, and is equally inviting for formal dining or a quick bite at the oyster bar. Fish’s signature dishes—skate wing with truffled spaetzle, monkfish bathed in curried mussel vinaigrette—round out starters like crudo-style tartare and smoky stems of grilled octopus blanketing a fried egg yolk. And the smart addition of pastry chef Monica Glass, best known for her tenure at 10 Arts by Eric Ripert, means that seafood isn’t the only thing worth swooning over here anymore. 1234 Locust St., 215-545-9600

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GABELLO STUDIOS

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