By Roberta Naas
Photography by Jeff Crawford | September 29, 2014 | Watches & Jewelry
Complexities, chronographs, and calendars are the most popular watches on the market for Philly men today—and the reasons are elementary.
When considering the most sought-after timepieces for men, one immediately turns to the triumvirate that offers the cool, crafted classic form and function of complex, chronograph, and calendar watches.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: From Hermès, this Arceau Le Temps Suspendu ($20,750) translates as “time suspended.” The mechanical self-winding watch offers hours and minutes. However, it is also equipped with a unique system that enables the wearer to stop the watch (suspend time) from showing the time elapsed. When the wearer pushes a button, the watch automatically shows the correct time again. It is crafted in steel and fitted with a matte Havana alligator strap. King of Prussia Mall, 610-992-9730. Piaget’s Altiplano 38mm 900P ($27,800) is a world-record-setting watch as it is the thinnest mechanical timepiece on the market. Piaget managed this feat by actually integrating movement parts into the case in a revolutionary concept. The hand-wound watch was three years in the making and offers an all-time slimness of 3.65mm. It is crafted in white gold, and the 145-part movement is black-coated. Govberg Jewelers, 65 St. James Pl., Ardmore, 610-664-1715. This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Extra-Thin Tourbillon ($135,800) is a special edition crafted in steel with a steel bracelet and blue dial—with a Petite Tapisserie pattern—and gold applied hour markers. The timepiece houses the Caliber 2924 Manufacture mechanical movement with 216 parts, tourbillon escapement, and 70 hours of power reserve. Govberg Jewelers, 1521 Walnut St., 215-546-6505. The Ralph Lauren 45mm RL67 Safari Tourbillon ($55,000) is created with a gunmetal-finished steel case and juxtaposes the ruggedness of a sports watch with the high-tech tourbillon escapement that compensates for errors in timing due to the effects of gravity. The manufacture RL67 self-winding mechanical movement features a power reserve of 38 hours. The steel of the case undergoes a chemical and thermal treatment that increases its durability and transforms the steel’s silver sheen into a rugged blackened finish. Bernie Robbins Jewelers, 507 New Road, Somers Point, NJ, 609-927-4848
Timepieces that offer certain complex functions in addition to time are valuable assets today. Those functions can include multiand world-timers that keep time in several zones; watches that are ultrathin and fit well under shirt cuffs; or models that offer tourbillon escapements to compensate for the effects of gravity on timekeeping when the watch is in different positions on the wrist.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Hamilton is a brand well known for its history of manufacturing railroad watches, so this Railroad Auto Chrono H-21 ($2,045), crafted in steel and housing a Swiss-made mechanical movement with 60 hours of power reserve, continues the brand’s tradition of distance and speed timing. This timepiece offers a tachymeter in the center of the dial and a railroad track motif on the dial. Bernie Robbins Jewelers, 507 New Road, Somers Point, NJ, 609-927-4848. From David Yurman, this Revolution Chronograph ($6,400) is inspired by the world of muscle cars and auto racing. It is crafted in stainless steel with a bold 43.5mm case and steel bracelet. It offers chronograph functions for split-second timing. King of Prussia Mall, 610-265-6370. From Louis Vuitton, this Tambour Twin Chrono Grand Sport watch ($75,500) houses the LV 175 automatic caliber that has been assembled by La Fabrique du Temps, a Louis Vuitton Manufacture. The timepiece offers dual chronograph display and a 60-minute counter thanks to the complex 437-part movement. It is crafted in 18k white gold. Just 30 pieces will be made. King of Prussia Mall, 610-992-0392. This Movado Parlee Limited Edition Automatic Chronograph ($7,500), created in partnership with Parlee Cycles, is a high-tech watch inspired by the ultralightweight material used to build the company’s road bikes. In fact, it is made of the same unidirectional carbon fiber used in the Parlee racing-bicycle frame construction. The ultrastrong sports performance automatic chronograph watches are available with dial accents in green, orange, blue, or white. Just 250 pieces will be made. Benari Jewelers, 3606 West Chester Pike, Newtown Square, 610-355-1800
Need a watch to time your laps, bike rides, or treks? Chronographs are all the rage—measuring time to the minute, second, and even split second. Indeed, chronographs are designed to measure continuous or discontinuous intervals of time. Their multi subdial faces also make them super alluring to look at, and they can be found in abundance in all price ranges.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: This Carl F. Bucherer Manero Chrono Perpetual watch ($52,600) is crafted in 18k rose gold with a silver dial that depicts the day, date, month, year, leap years, and moon phases. The chronograph has a flyback function and tachymeter scale for ultimate performance from a mechanical timepiece. Bernie Robbins Jewelers, 595 E. Lancaster Ave., St. Davids, 610-971-2446. From Baume & Mercier, this Clifton 10057 ($4,950) is an annual calendar timepiece with Swiss-made self-winding movement and a power reserve of 42 hours. The 43mm steel watch with domed antiglare sapphire crystal offers moon phase indication and day, month, and central date hand on the elegant blue dial. Bernie Robbins Jewelers, 507 New Road, Somers Point, NJ, 609-927-4848. From Vacheron Constantin, this Patrimony Traditionelle Openworked Perpetual Calendar watch ($174,900) is magnificently skeletonized, and each of the 276 parts of the complex caliber is hand-finished. The watch offers day, date, month, year, leap year, and moon phase indication, and carries the Hallmark of Geneva certification. Govberg Jewelers, 1521 Walnut St., 215-546-6505. This Breitling for Bentley Light Body QP Midnight Carbon watch ($40,835) features a Royal Ebony dial and a black Bentley II strap. The timepiece is a perpetual calendar chronograph that is precise, powerful, and lightweight. The officially certified COSC chronometer movement holds 500 individual parts. In addition to day, date, week, month, and leap year scale, this watch also offers season and moon phase indications. Govberg Jewelers, 1521 Walnut St., 215-546-6505
There are a host of watches that offer annual or perpetual calendar functions to help the man on the go keep track of the day, date, month, and more. With annual calendars, the wearer needs to adjust the function at the end of certain months of different lengths, whereas a perpetual calendar tracks and automatically changes according to months of varying lengths as well as leap years, and—in most instances—does not need an adjustment until the year 2100.
styling by terry lewis