With her son by her side, Susanna Foo is back in fine form at Suga.
A Suga speciality: Niman Ranch Mandarin pork with Bibb lettuce, pancake, and brandy Hoisin sauce.
Chef Susanna Foo was a large part of Philly’s first restaurant renaissance in the ’80s, when she turned Chinese-French cuisine into white-linen dining. She closed her eponymous restaurant in 2009 after 22 years, and moved her culinary enterprise to Radnor to be closer to her family. Now that family—in particular, son Gabe—is at the forefront of Foo’s next phase with Suga, a restaurant reliant on the tastes and décor of her childhood in Mongolia, sans the French influences. “We’re returning to her roots, but with her personal interpretation,” says Gabe, who handles front-of-the-house operations and cocktail concepts. Natural wood accents counter hues of red, teal, grey, and gold reminiscent of the Chinese night markets of Foo’s youth at the 80-seat Suga. “We’re going for a chic, modern Asian vibe,” says Gabe, a feel that will be reflected in new menu items such as the spicy Ma Po Tofu with beech mushrooms and Szechuan peppercorn as well as her signature fluffy steamed dumplings—a longtime Philly favorite. 1720 Sansom St.,215-717- 8968