For Philadelphians battling aging and weather damage, Dior’s new skincare product with trompe l’oeil mineral powders offers a clear solution.
“After women, flowers are the divine creation,” said Christian Dior, who used them to inspire his fabrics and collections. The legacy of Dior’s flower passion may be the reason his couture house is likely the only one with its own gardens—eight flower plots scattered around the world, whose locations were chosen, as if by a discriminating vintner, for the quality of the terroir. But rather than for fashion inspiration, the rare exotic flowers grown in these gardens provide active ingredients for the company’s line of fragrances, skincare, and cosmetics. The extracts from two recent discoveries, Langosa and Opilia, harvested in Madagascar and Burkina Faso, respectively, form the basis of Dior’s new skincare product Dreamskin, the natural extracts from one (Langosa) added for antiaging benefits, the other (Opilia) to help correct the skin’s color imperfections. It’s unusual for a skin product to be both corrector and wrinkle treatment. But antiaging skincare, perennially a white-hot product category, had to evolve from just treating wrinkles—with countless varieties of filler injections, there are many ways to get quick, good results. Recent studies showed consumers wanting products that mitigate aging’s other side effects—uneven texture and pigmentation, for example— as much as those that minimize wrinkles.
Brigid Noe, director of Formulation Laboratories for Dior, says developing a product that corrects tone and wrinkles was no easy task: “Usually formulas must contain a significant amount of powders and pigments for immediate, visible color imperfection results. But those with a lot of pigments don’t always allow for deep absorption.” Noe and her team tried hundreds of combinations, while studying how facial skin absorbs and reflects light. Under the microscope, facial skin, like a Pointillist painting, appears as a collection of small colored dots, which should result in an uneven surface appearance. But the epidermal cell structure is unique in the way it reorganizes how light interacts with it. Edouard Mauvais-Jarvis, scientific director for Dior, says that it acts as a natural optical filter with diffusion properties that help to even out color and texture. “But aging impacts cells that act as filters,” he says.
For their new product, scientists sought to mimic how healthy filters work by adding special mineral powders found in Japan—one with mica platelets, another with silica particles—to the flower extract formula. The powders tested well for their light diffusion properties, minimizing redness and other age-caused textural imperfections. What’s interesting about Dreamskin is that while it appears creamy pink (from the colorcorrecting mineral powders), it applies transparently. Designed to be worn during the day, or under makeup, it’s quite a clever bit of trompe l’oeil and the latest wearable magic from Dior. Available at Neiman Marcus, King of Prussia Mall, 610-354-0500