Old City’s Forsythia serves up francophile delights in its French AF culinary series.
Forsythia’s beautifully plated Rohan duck breast is a menu standout
Chef Christopher Kearse has mastered the art of cuisine in some of the country’s finest restaurants. After first honing his chops at Lacroix, studying under the masterful tutelage of Thomas Keller at Napa Valley’s world-renowned French Laundry, and opening his much-lauded Will BYOB on Passyunk to rave reviews, this James Beard semifinalist opened Forsythia (forsythiaphilly.com) in the summer of 2019 to accolades, bells and a ton of buzz. And since then, Kearse and his modern French restaurant in the heart of Old City have become a gastronomic staple for Philly foodies.
While Forsythia is known for constructing French-inspired cuisine with a modern twist—think 10-day dry-aged duck, poulet a la moutarde and brown butter potato aligot—it’s the boîte’s prix fixe French AF series that’s really showcasing how Kearse can turn traditional French fare on its jaunty head. Through this monthly series, Kearse and his team experiment with a wide variety of classic French ingredients, techniques, recipes and regions, while offering gastronomes a one-night-only exclusive dining experience—with an optional wine pairing to complement each course.
Previous French AF nights have included last month’s French Laundry Per Se Cookbook night, which showcased signature dishes such as salads blanche and calotte de beouf from chef Thomas Keller’s acclaimed cookbook. But April’s installment is all about celebrating spring. “As a chef, spring is the most rewarding and exciting season,” says chef Kearse. “So many of mother nature’s delicacies are showcased in the micro seasons of spring—from the few weeks run of wild ramps, fiddlehead ferns and morel mushrooms, just to name a few.”
The interior, designed by Philadelphia’s PS & Daughters, is a light and airy homage to a French garden.
April’s French AF dinner is a five-course ode to all things truffle, with dishes such as duck fat Parisian gnocchi with peas, ramps, aged gouda and foie gras truffle jus, and lobster and black truffle chou farci with sauce maltaise and tarragon. And for a truffle-tastic desert, try out the baba au calvados with caramelized white chocolateblack truffle crémeux and pistachio. For a look ahead, May’s French AF menu will be a wild ramps-centric feast featuring dishes made with ingredients that are foraged that very morning. Expect chef Kearse to incorporate hyperseasonal ingredients such as morel mushrooms with proteins like salt meadow lamb and frog legs. A guest sommelier will be on hand for the optional wine pairings for both dinners, and a special curated cocktail will also be featured.
Photography by: GAB BONGHI; MAX MESTER
